growing up savvy

Posted by Robin Ransom on 6 September 2011 | 0 Comments

New Zealanders are drinking much more NZ-grown wine than ever. In the last ten years our consumption of home grown wine has increased gradually from 44% of the total to 71%, with most of that increase in the last three years.  

Much more of the wine we consume is white wine than red – approaching two bottles of white to one of red. One third of this is – yes you guessed it, NZ sauvignon blanc. While this seems high, it is in fact low viewed in context: this variety constitutes a massive avalanche, accounting for two thirds of NZ’s total wine produced, and almost 85% of total wine exports.

Why is sauvignon so popular? I reckon it is because it is obvious, simple, and above all readily identifiable. If those visiting our cellar door are representative, the favourite wine tipple of young women is sauvignon. A common refrain is “I’m a savvy girl – can I try your savvy please?” To which our response is “sorry this is a sauvignon-free zone”, followed by an explanation as to why – essentially our climate is not right for it – or rather, nowhere near as “right” as Marlborough’s climate, so sauvignon produced in Matakana would not have that racy, zingy, pungent character which people recognize.

Those beyond party-time and past the first flush of youth tend not to be so hooked on sauvignon. Many declare that they have moved on – found other more interesting wines and perhaps think more in terms of wine and food.

So what are the other whites we drink? Chardonnay is number two on our favourite whites list, at around two thirds of our savvy consumption. This is perhaps surprisingly high in view of the number of our cellar door punters who declaim they no longer drink chardonnay. I think the sheer class of chardonnay will continue to ensure it retains a favoured place amongst NZ wine drinkers. It is after all, considered by most wine commentators to be the best white wine grape in the world – with the possible exception of riesling.

We now drink somewhat more chardonnay and pinot gris combined than sauvignon, largely because the growth of pinot gris has been spectacular in recent years. This may perhaps suggest a maturation in the national palate, as pinot gris tends to be more subtle and less obvious than sauvignon blanc, and it is friendly to a wide range of foods, whereas sauvignon definitely is not.

Riesling trundles along as our fourth white, and I reckon it will always maintain a presence at that level or thereabouts, again because of its sheer class and its versatility – it comes in a range of guises from bone dry through to sumptuously sweet.

What of the future? I think our consumption patterns of white wine will become more diverse as our palates become more adventurous and sophisticated. The increasing diversity is likely to be at the expense of sauvignon blanc more than the others whites, and two new varieties to watch out for in coming years will be gruner veltliner from Austria and albarino from Spain. Both display excellent levels of acidity which makes them very good food wines.

Meantime, a salute to all of you who buy New Zealand wines, whether white, sparkling or red. Your support is greatly appreciated. 

Robin Ransom

(published in Mahurangi Matters, September 2011)