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Now that the weather has turned we start thinking about winter fare and the wines which go with it. Most people associate red wines more with winter and whites with summer, which is fair enough given the heavier foods we tend to have in the winter. Many don't make seasonal distinctions in the colour of the wine they drink, particularly in France where they have an expression le premier devoir de chaque raisin c'est d'etre rouge - "the first duty of every grape is to be red", a sentiment which I fully understand.